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"Try everything once," said Sir Thomas Beecham, "Except incest and folk dancing" It is not known whether Byron ever tried folk dancing.

When Byron and Augusta met in 1813 in London, the attraction was strong and mutual. The graceful couple quickly became steady companions and shared a busy social life. To an outsider, the situation might have seemed to contain all the elements of a perfect romance. Never mind that she was twenty-nine and five years older than he. Never mind that she was married, or that she had three children. The problem was that they were brother and sister.

Augusta's mother died shortly after she was born, and Augusta was brought up in the care of her maternal grandmother, Lady Holderness. In 1785 her father remarried, and her half brother George Gordon Byron, born on 22 January 1788, was the son of that second marriage. 'Mad Jack', as their father was known, died when Byron was three.

Brother and sister grew apart and shared none of the ordinary experiences of siblings. They had met earlier, but his mother discouraged contact with Augusta. They had corresponded, but exchanges became infrequent from 1807 when she married her cousin, Colonel George Leigh, and ceased in 1809 when he left on his grand tour - his 'Childe Harold's Pilgrimage'.

Back in England after his two-year sojourn, communication between Augusta and Byron resumed with her letter of sympathy on the death of his mother. He was a sensational overnight success with the publication of the first cantos of Childe Harold and became the lion of London society. Augusta was full of curiosity about her 'baby Byron'. They arranged to meet.

Hers was not a happy marriage. Her wandering and worthless husband was a selfish egotist, a spendthrift and a gambler, who was always in financial difficulty. Appointed equerry, Colonel Leigh managed race horses at Newmarket for the Prince of Wales, who gave him the conveniently located house in the hamlet of Six Mile Bottom. He was usually busy at the races and away from home. Left alone with her three small children, Augusta felt neglected and bored. On a visit to a friend in London, she and Byron met and found they shared not only the same father but a deep affection, which was to grow into a permanent and passionate love.

They spent most of the summer of 1813 together, and Byron made several visits to her Cambridgeshire home. He followed her to Six Mile Bottom within a few days of her departure from London. After his second visit, he persuaded her to come back to London. That summer they decided to remain together always and planned to flee to the Continent. Lady Melbourne, his confidante, who was privy to the escape plan, helped to dissuade him, saying that it was a 'crime for which there was no salvation in this world, whatever there might be in the next.'

Byron's regular visits to Six Mile Bottom continued. He often wrote outside in the summer garden under a huge tree which came to be known as 'Byron's tree' but, alas, not destined for the kind of immortality allotted to Milton's mulberry in Cambridge. Byron's beech was felled some thirty years ago and only the rise in the ground from the huge roots remain. He worked here on The Corsair, a tale of incestuous love, with Medora, a name later chosen for Augusta's fourth child, as one of the characters. The hero, a 'man of loneliness and mystery,' was identified by many as the author:

He left a Corsair's name to other times, Linked with one virtue, and a thousand crimes.

Their love continued unabated, and in January of the following year, Byron took Augusta to his ancestral Newstead Abbey home, near Nottingham, just as any loving husband might give a pregnant wife a holiday break. There they were alone and extremely happy - and snowbound for ten days. They carved their names on a tree. There is no doubt they adored each other. The blissful holiday over, she returned to Six Mile Bottom; he, to London. He visited her again in March, then returned the following April when Elizabeth Medora Leigh was born. The Colonel was away in Yorkshire, but Byron came to Six Mile Bottom to be with her. They both agreed he should take the expedient step of securing a wife. Marriage would deflect gossip. After proposing to Annabella Milbanke, he was again at Six Mile Bottom. His impending marriage seemed doomed before it took place. He hesitated about going to see Miss Milbanke, and he hesitated about marriage. But the wedding finally took place on 2 January 1815. That date enabled him to spend the preceding Christmas with Augusta.

The honeymoon was dreadful and the aftermath was worse. The newlyweds were Augusta's guests at Six Mile Bottom for some two weeks in March. His behaviour towards his wife was cruel from the beginning. He humiliated the young bride by sending her to bed early, indicating that he preferred his sister's company. He hinted strongly at his incestuous affair. He once pointed to Medora and announced that she was his own child.

Augusta returned the visit to the Byrons in April and stayed at their fashionable London address, which was filled with domestic strife. Annabella left him after their child Augusta Ada was born in December. She tried to have her husband certified insane. Augusta was dragged into the scandalous proceedings, which ended in a deed of separation in April 1816. On the 23rd of that month, he left England, having said good-bye to Augusta a week earlier. Abroad, 'the wandering outlaw of his own dark mind' turned to his poetry. Augusta continued to occupy his thoughts, and his poems include the Epistle to Augusta:

My sister! my sweet sister! if a name
Dearer and purer were, it should be thine;
Mountains and seas divide us, but I claim
No tears, but tenderness to answer mine
Go where I will, to me thou art the same
A loved regret which I would not resign,
There yet are two things in my destiny,
A world to roam through, and a home with thee.

But he was destined never to see his beloved Augusta - or England - again. He travelled to Switzerland and Italy where he produced among other works, the third and fourth cantos of Childe Harold, Don Juan, Beppo, Manfred and Mazeppa. He set out in 1823 to join the Greek insurgents in their fight for freedom and died of fever in Missolonghi, Greece, on 19 April 1824.

Byron's biography contains many unsolved problems. While it may never be known with absolute certainty that Byron slept with Augusta, it is certainly known that he slept in Augusta's home in Six Mile Bottom.

The Byron spirit still lives in that house, formerly known as The Lodge. Renamed and remodelled, it is now a country-house hotel called Swynford Paddocks. It sits at the end of a long drive amidst large trees in pleasant grounds. With gabled roof and prominent chimneys, and with attractive greenery which partly covers the white exterior, it still gives the impression of a large private house.

The approach to Swynford Paddocks from London, fifty-eight miles to the south, passes through the hamlet with the suggestive name of Six Mile Bottom. Actually, the name derives from the fact that it stands in a hollow six miles from Newmarket.

This area of England, famous for horses and horse-racing since the time of Charles II who loved the sport, offers a variety of activities. If walking around the stud results in boredom there is the possibility of visiting the Newmarket racecourse. There is always the lovely countryside to be enjoyed by taking drives, as did Augusta, across the Devil's Dyke to the town of Newmarket or over the Gog Magog Hills with their prehistoric Iron Age hill-fort of Wandlebury Ring. Cambridge is just nine miles away, and stately homes such as Anglesey Abbey are open to the public. But one can just as easily stay indoors and imbibe the Byron atmosphere of Swynford Paddocks.

Tastefully decorated throughout, the fifteen bedrooms are extremely comfortable. The management displays great awareness of the scandalous scenes played out in its premises nearly two centuries ago. Huge dominating portraits of Byron, Augusta and Medora hang on the staircase wall. Among the books in the bedroom is a biography of Medora Leigh, Byron's Daughter; the guest may chose between sin or sanctity, biography or bible for bedtime reading.

Swynford Paddocks dispels dark and gloomy accusations of dreaded incest in its bright, cheerful and elegant atmosphere. Those able to create their own canto for a private pilgrimage are in for a treat. Byron travelled in style. It is fitting that those who follow his travels can do so stylishly at Swynford Paddocks.

A slightly adapted extract from the book "Literary Lodgings" by Elaine Borish.

 

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